moflo-your online guide to Florence

When visiting Florence for a few days the relevant bits of the city are fairly self-evident, usually because they have massive churches and museums parked on them. Come and study here for a few months, though, and you’ll soon be longing to see what’s beyond the Duomo.

Centro Storico

The old centre is traditionally mapped out via the main Piazze – Santa Croce, San Lorenzo, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella – with the Duomo (in Piazza San Giovanni, by the way) central to pretty much everything.

The centro storico is very visitor friendly. Which is lucky as there are about 6 million visitors every year. That is indeed a very big number. You can walk from one end to the other in about 15-20 minutes and will not have to cross any major obstacles on the way (aside from about 6 million tourists).

These days the centro storico is hemmed in by the Viale, the main ring-road which more is the easiest and quickest way to get from one place to another in a car. The Viale that circles the centre is divided into 10 or so different sections, each named after a historical figure (making them impossible to remember). To get from the centre to anywhere else in the city on foot or bike, you’ll have to cross the Viale at some point – on the North side of the river at least. It can be crossed easily enough, although expect lots of fast moving traffic and very little sympathy from mad local drivers. They love to watch you cack yourself, so always wait for the green man, and even then, look both ways.

Outside of the centre, the city is long and thin – surrounded on the (roughly) north and south sides by hills. The main periferia, or suburb, stretches (roughly) east, or left if you’re looking at the map. Out this way are (amongst others) the areas of Osmanora, Novoli and Firenze Nuova,  where you will find the following highlights: the airport, IKEA, Tenax nightclub, the new University buildings (and other massive new developments, like the courthouse and large residential areas).

Stretching out the other way there is less development and you’ll reach hills within a couple of kilometres. Heading this way, which is (roughly) west, you’ll find: Saschall theatre (great for concerts), Coverciano – where the national football team train …not much else that you’re likely to go looking for.

Oltrarno

is the name for the area south of the river in Florence. It is, on the whole, more serene, picturesque and less full of tourists (apart from Piazza Pitti). The neighbourhoods of San Niccolo, Santo Spirito and San Frediano are home to a variety of restaurant, bars as well as artists and artisans. Some of the most desirable residential areas are found around here, as well as some of the nicest quieter spots to go for a drink in the evening. 

Campo di Marte

Is north-east of the centre, and the main attraction here is the football stadium, the Stadio Artemio Franchi. Around the stadium there are some great spots for getting cheap pizza, as well as a few good Pubs and bars bustling with locals and, again, no tourists.

Piazza Libertá

Is the northern point of the centre, pretty much at the bottom of the hills that surround the city. It is very busy with traffic, but does contain a spectacular old Porta, or city gate (see below). There are pubs and restaurants hidden around here too, as well as some nice little gardens and villas nearby.

Le Cascine

Originally a rich man’s playground (or hunting park to be precise) it is now the city’s biggest (only?) park. It stretches a good 3km along the river and is one of the few spots that you can really find some greenery and proper peace and quiet. At the beginning of the park are the legendary nightspots, Central Park and Meccano (unfortunately under reconstruction after a mild case of suspected arson earlier this year). Le Cascine is also known for the availability of certain night time services that your mother warned you about (or was that just mine?). More specifically, transgender night time services that are offered, and sometimes carried out with a remarkable lack of discretion.

Le Porte

A great way to get your bearings is to learn the different Porte, or gates around the city. The city walls are, for the most part, long gone (the bricks having been enthusiastically recycled into houses), but the gates are still evident.

See the image at the top of the article for a nice map 

The four that are regularly referred to when giving directions, or generally describing what end of town something is located are: Porta Al Prato, Porta San Niccolò, Porta Romana, Porta San Frediano. The picture should give you an idea of how to orient yourself.

My final word is this: put yourself about. When you get the chance to see some more of the city, I can guarantee you’ll appreciate it. You’ll see your surroundings in a whole new light.

That’s it for now, even though I haven’t covered the whole city by any means. As always, if you have anything to add or ask, use the comments bit below and we’ll see if we can’t help.

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