| Calcio Storico |
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What on earth is it all about?
History can be a bit dry. Without the contextual knowledge and empathic agility required to really grasp a different time, it can be too abstract. Too hard, also, to discern the emotional power of a tradition that has to be drawn off the page to exist at all. Bringing history to life, therefore, is a noble pursuit. How much more noble when history is alive, angry and kicking the crap out of someone.
Calcio storico literally means ancient football. Locals prefer to call it calcio in costume, presumably because they have grown up watching it annually, so it doesn't seem so ancient at all. It is locally accepted to be the origin of what is now the most widely played, watched and understood sport in the world. Calcio in costume can be described as somewhat crude by modern standards – a test of strength, aggression and pure will rather than finesse or skill. The object is to 'get the ball in the net' at the opposite end of the field, and rules enacted beyond that are scarce to say the least. 26 people represent their neighbourhood on the pitch – a field of sand – and when play starts most gainfully employ themselves with debilitating a member of the opposite team, thus opening up the field for their runners (in a way not disimilar to American Football's blockers). The techniques used include, tackling, charging, wrestling, boxing...a general “if it hurts, it works” ethos is typical and effective. The participants are drawn from the four historic neighbourhoods, Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella, Santo Spirito and San Giovanni (see map below). They are represented by the colours blue, red, white and green respectively.
The rivalries involved are fierce, grudges live on from year to year, generation to generation and anyone who thinks that these days it is nothing more than a tame tourist spectacle is sorely mistaken. Each neighbourhood wants to earn bragging rights across the city and the supporters baying for blood in the pursuit of glory are rarely disappointed. Not to be forgotten is the traditional flag-throwing which accompanies the game, as it does with so many civic rituals in the old Tuscan city states. It can be a bit long-winded but it is a graceful art and one which adds to the anticipation as well as historical scene-setting for the main event. It is good to see the return of Calcio in Costume after the (well founded) fears of excessive public disorder which caused last year's cancellation. The event serves as a great reminder of the conflict, violence and passion that went into the establishment of this fine city. As a modern football fan I am intrigued by the unrefined, atavistic nature of the game and the familiar local tribalism that it inspires. Also amazing is the path the game has taken to modernity - from the humble brawling of a handful of sailors and other miscreants, a global subculture of vast riches now exists that counts its enthusiasts in billions.
When: June 11th – Semi-final, June 14th – Semi-final, June 24th – Final Where: Piazza Santa Croce – MAP Info: Official Website Tickets: boxol.it |
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