moflo-your online guide to Florence

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"Its the Little Differences"
By Nathan Rychlik 01.23.08
There are some things about living here that you just never get used to...

 

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 t the cynical old age of 25 there are few things in American society that phase me these days. Not the $3.50 per gallon gas prices, not the perpetual delinquency of our government and not even the fact that Sanjaya made it so far in American Idol. Stories such as these seem quite the norm. Fortunately, I was rescued from the monotony of Fox News reporting and biweekly Britney Spears breakdowns when I moved to Florence last May.

Figuratively speaking, Florence was a breath of fresh air. Although the air itself is not at all fresh within the Center, the architecture, language, food, wine, people, shopping… all a welcome change from what was “normal” in my previous life. However, as magical and surreal as an experience seems, there are always aspects of it that, no matter how long you’re exposed to them, can never quite assimilate into your realm of acceptance. I have encountered 7 such instances here in Florence that still cause me to shake my head in disbelief on a daily basis.


    1) Sidewalks, or lack thereof. The sidewalks of Florence are wonderful and easy to navigate, especially so if you’re walking with only your iPod to keep you company. Although I frequently walk the streets alone, I do at times enjoy breaking out of my box of social reclusivity, walking with others, and even occasionally engaging them in conversation when doing so. Unfortunately, the 3.5 feet of cobblestone between the old palazzi and road, combined with the two-way pedestrian traffic make it impossible to walk side by side. Rather than engaging in conversation, much of the journey is spent walking single file while immersed in an epic game of Florentine Frogger, jumping from curb to road and back, in avoidance of fellow gamers and oncoming traffic.


    2) Bus Mirrors. Now, this is tied closely to my #1, and for those who have been here for any amount of time, I probably need say no more. For those who haven’t, this is essentially the situation where you will most frequently fear for your life here in Florence. No, seriously. The ATAF bus mirrors are extremely large and protrude approx. 2 feet on either side. Due to the narrow street layout they also extend well into the space of the sidewalk which means if you’re anywhere over the height of 5 feet and not vigilant while walking, you will unexpectedly and promptly be decapitated. I for one have had more than my fair share of close calls.


    3) Florentine Motorists. I’ve driven here in Florence so I can empathize with Florentine drivers to a certain extent. The city’s vehicular layout is made up almost completely of one-way streets. Combine that with the constant overflow of tourists and students into the road and those pesky things called “traffic lights,” tempers are bound to flare. Cursing, hand gestures and even the occasional love tap to a pedestrian by a Mercedes rear view mirror… not at all uncommon. I’m probably guilty of all of the above. What’s frightening is how commonly I’ve seen scooters jump the curb, motored down the sidewalk through oncoming foot traffic, maybe do a 360 kick flip in the process, and then return to the road when they see fit. Unreal. Like the use of roads, the proper use of one-way streets seems to be “optional.” Scooters and cars alike go in the direction they deem most convenient at the time. It’s like how in America STOP signs with a white border are optional… right?


    4) Construction!!! I will start off by saying that Florentines are incredibly efficient at putting up scaffolding and preparing for construction to take place. Whether it be road works or work on a building, within a day the entire worksite will be ready and covered with beams, plastic and various materials that are supposedly conducive to the job that needs to be done. This is when one of two things may happen: 1. There is a tarp erected surrounding the work area so that passers-by cannot see what is going on, thus giving the illusion of actual work being done or 2, no cover is erected and the worksite is in plain view. Both instances end in the same result though: months pass by in which no visible progress can be seen.


    5) Paying for grocery bags. It’s a concept that caught me off guard the first time I went to a market here. Pay? For a grocery bag?! Malarkey!! I have since come to terms with the idea and am for it 100%. Brilliant. Although bags are relatively cheap 5-10 Euro cents apiece, it seems to be quite the deterrent for littering. They can be reused when grocery shopping, for garbage in your apartment, or generally just to schlep things around. Reusing shopping bags is not a common sight where I’ve lived in the states, and more often than not, the bags end up blowing about, stuck in trees or pinned up against chain link fences next to the interstate. In any event, cheers Florence! I applaud this and I hope it’s adopted at some point in America as well.


    6) Italian Football. Football (or soccer for Americans / Calcio in the Italian native tongue) was a main deciding factor in my move back here to Italy: to actually immerse myself in the European football culture and play internationally. Football in Italy can probably be best described by comparing it to how Canadians are born and promptly given a hockey stick, and how when Americans are born, we are promptly given a Big Mac. Subsequently, Italians are born with a football attached to their feet. For me, the style of play has been hard to get used to since I’ve started training. In America and England both, we are trained in a more physical style: using the body to shield, to tackle, and to generally muscle your way about. The Italian style of play couldn’t be further from this mindset. In my first few matches, and even to this day, I have given away fouls and most times don’t know what the call was. They are much more frequent and occur even when you are not near the ball. I do have to compliment many Italian players for being brilliant all-around footballers and brilliant actors though. Prior to playing here in Italy, it was never my style to take dives and whinge about things that have happened on the pitch, but such is the culture here. Although it has taken me quite some time to get used to their acting tactics and method of play, I have, in a sense, mildly embraced it and added “not staying on my feet” as a minor part of my football repertoire.


    7) Italian “Creepers.” This part of Italian society doesn’t affect me directly, but any women that are reading this know what the gist is going to be without going any further. Webster’s Dictionary defines “Italian Creeper” as an overbearing aggressive Italian man, roughly between the ages of 30 and 90, who frequents bars and clubs where American female students / tourists go to enjoy a night out, and who rarely accepts “no” as the definitive answer when coming on to his prey. Typically, “creepers” can be found looming in dark corners, surveying the crowd, and looking for that opportune moment to jump onto the dance floor and take an unassuming lady for his own. Such instances can be countered by throwing an elbow or by having a protective posse with you to act as a saviour if need be. I am almost completely convinced that the reason pepper spray is illegal here in Italy is due to the fact a majority of the male population would be blind in the matter of hours if American women were allowed to use it.

Comments (2)add
... : fondo114
about number 4, what about the scaffolding covered in advertisments that stay up for months and months without anyone working. This has to be a scam!!!
January 29, 2008
... : Cara
haha, I cannot tell you how many times I am almost been run over by a bus while being stalked by creepy men... ;)
January 31, 2008
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