moflo-your online guide to Florence

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Tales of a Tourist
By Christina Nikolakopoulos 02.20.08
Mediterranean masculinity in public space and an attempt to debunk the stereotype.

 

I

t was the first true day of Spring, and although the Italian climate had been fairly good to me since I had arrived there in mid-January, I let no gorgeous day pass me by without taking full advantage. All I had to think of were the unbearable, unmerciful days of the American Northeast winter that I was missing back home and it was enough motivation to inspire my adventurous, outdoor spirit. I was independent, living in Italy and going to school. It was an opportunity that any young adult would fully cherish and this day, like any other, I planned to absorb all that I could.

Mercato Centrale, the open food market flooded with vendors and consumers, provided my girlfriend and me with delicious goodies for our afternoon picnic. After several transactions and with our hands fully occupied by plastic bags of fresh fruits and vegetables, homemade Italian bread, and mozzarella we headed to our destination picnic area which lay on the other side of the Arno, the long river that divided the beautiful city of Florence. In order to complete our journey, however, we were forced to walk back through the locally famous San Lorenzo market, a milieu teeming with tourists in search of local flavor and shopping. The pathway delineated by rows of carts veered off into little side streets that seemed to stretch into the horizon. It was a Mecca for market-goers but chaos to those who only wished to pass through. Otherwise known as “the leather market,” San Lorenzo wafted with the smell of processed dead skin. Quickly we zigzagged in and out of the masses of people, intent on completing our mission to have a relaxing picnic in the sun.

As we crossed the bridge my apartment came into view from off in the distance. It lay sandwiched between the Santo Spirito square and the Pitti Palace, once home to one of the major ruling families of Florence centuries ago. Today we had decided upon the palace as the location for our long awaited lunch outdoors. Set slightly on a hill, the palace’s front courtyard of stone provided a perfect picnic spot. We set our blanket down and immediately tore apart the bread and inside nestled chunks of mozzarella and juicy tomatoes, generating the traditional mozzarella e pomodoro sandwich. My friend and I ate in silence enjoying every ounce of pleasure we had created. The tingling of our taste buds together with the warm sensations penetrating our sun-deprived skin were enough to preoccupy our minds on such a careless spring day. Faster than the sandwiches were made we swallowed them. With our bellies overstuffed and our minds at ease we adjusted the blankets and lay back with our faces towards the warmth of the sunshine overhead. Relaxed, eyes closed and skin brazing in the Spring air, I exhaled a breath that, for a moment, relieved all my prior tensions and anxieties only to inhale the poignant scent of a man’s cologne.

The abrasive stench triggered a sense of discomfort and immediately prompted me to reopen my eyes and re-evaluate my surroundings. As soon as my eyes had time to readjust I found myself face to face with a grinning male stranger. Though my uneasiness was easily detectable and I showed no apprehension in displaying my annoyance, the intruder did not move and instead readjusted his tight jeans, plopped himself down as if we had invited him and confidently lowered his stylish sunglasses. “Come ti chiami?” the male voice asked. I looked in my friend’s direction for moral support though she did not offer any clues as to how I could get myself out of such an uncomfortable situation. Without any further insight I turned back towards him and burst into a nervous laughter. “I don’t understand Italian,” was the experimental response that week for “Ways to get rid of an Italian.” My friend had claimed earlier that week that the “we don’t speak the same language approach” would dissuade the aggressive men from trying to seduce us in the streets of Florence. We were clearly not looking for their attention nor had we even cared to notice their presence. Regardless, these two men were like flies; pestering us with remarks, invading our personal space and simply unwelcome. No sooner had we informed him that we could not speak Italian did he erupt into phrases of barely-comprehensible English. “Sorry, I don’t understand you,” I kept saying, although I couldn’t help but be amused at the new version of English that was so confidently flowing from his mouth. The amount of energy he was putting into his seduction techniques could have graduated him from college.

As time progressed and as we both realized his unfading determination our responses grew colder and colder, but nothing seemed to dissuade the performer from acting out the role of the Latin lover. He was on a public stage for all the world to see, displaying all the favorable qualities of a “real man”: fearless in the face of rejection, a woman as the trophy. “Go away,” my friend spoke firmly. “Please go away!” Our frustration was more than apparent but he trudged on. “You are Julia Roberts, no? And you, you are Cameron Diaz?” We were beyond the point of flattery but it was difficult to keep a straight face with such odd commentary. With that he added, “I am Johnny Depp.” This was the last straw that sent my friend bursting into her slightly flawed but perfectly understandable Italian. Her endless muddle of cursing finally ended with an ultimatum, “If you don’t leave then we will!”

To our dismay my friend’s outburst did nothing to dissuade the pursuits of the men. Now they seemed more intrigued than ever by her extensive knowledge of the Italian language. Not knowing whether to laugh or cry we got up, swept our blanket from the cold stone ground, gathered our belongings and left our sacred picnic spot. Defeated in our seemingly simple attempt at a peaceful day in Florence we walked off down the road. The events of the momentous Spring day in 2002 raised certain questions as well as problems for me. Upon revealing my decision to travel to Italy in order to continue my college studies I had been flooded with responses that revolved around a similar theme: that of the artful seduction of Italian males. My peers had forewarned me that I would be the object of prey for Italian males and certainly the target of unwanted attention. Invested in this stereotypical view of the Italian male was also an idea that women could not resist their romantic gestures and grotesquely explicit attempts at love. “Be careful, you might even bring one home with you,” I can recall a fellow comrade saying. These representations of the male population in Italy always took me aback.

Being a first generation American myself I took slight offense to any overly simplified version of a people particularly because my family’s history is engraved in the rich history and culture of the Mediterranean. After all, with this line of reasoning my own father would fall victim to the rigid stereotyped box and it is always difficult to think of your own father in terms of his sexuality. In fact, I was reminded of the story my parents often relay about their initial meeting: my mother, a tourist, my father a local Greek who ultimately did win her over. Perhaps this is the reason for me being drawn to the topic. The way I came to be has deep-seeded roots in an emphasized Mediterranean masculinity. If it were not for my father’s relentless attempts at attracting the attention of my mother, thereby successfully fulfilling his masculine role, I would not be here today. It disturbed me, not only to think of my own father in these terms, but having experienced such encounters myself I was disillusioned as to how any meaningful relationship could develop from such a seemingly superficial seduction game. Nonetheless, perhaps out of a need to discover myself I immediately latched onto the stereotype of the Mediterranean male as a topic to my senior year thesis.

Conceivably, in an attempt to unravel the phenomenon I could, too, lay to rest my unease with certain values that I felt came into conflict through such tourist/guest interactions. Upon landing on Italian soil I did not know what to expect or what future encounters with the local population would reveal. However, I was conscious of the perceptions that already existed. The circumstance at Pitti Palace with the Italian stranger conflicted with my attempts to move away from stereotyping and had the overall effect of raising issues about the process of stereotyping more broadly. How are stereotypes generated in the first place? Where does the image of the “sexually aggressive” Italian male come from and why do certain men carry on their legacy so emphatically? Who, in particular, are these Italian men and what makes their worldview different from those who step away from the stereotype? Do the sexual pursuits of some Italian men heighten their male self-identity? What does it mean to be “a man” in contemporary Italian culture?

I had been in Italy since January at the time of this particular incident and so I had had many other encounters with Italian males. The Italian male friends I had made stood apart from this over-sexualized view of their population. In fact, I would confidently say that the majority of men did not even fall near this stereotyped perception and it is possible that these men could even pass a unrepresentative slobs. A bipolar system of gender plagues this misconception of Italian culture. Through the stereotypical lens, Italian men embody all aspects attributed to masculinity: fearlessness, risk seeking, adventure, and activity, while women automatically inherit a passive, subordinate position. In an effort to challenge these unrealistic representations of men and women in Italy we must move away from thinking of gender in terms of binary opposites. Identity and gender are not fixed categories and so should not be treated as such. On the contrary, studies of gender relations should account for diversity and subjectivity. Only then can the complexity of Italian culture be unveiled and only then are we exposed to the diversity of Italian masculine and feminine identities that truly exist. Perhaps this is the gateway to conceiving of the Italian population outside of the rigid framework proposed by the stereotyped perception.


Comments (1)add
... : Carrie L
Really interesting piece, thanks. I could definitely relate!
September 29, 2008
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