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| Notes From The Underground |
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Understanding the Alternative Music Scene in Florence.
To understand anything in Italy, you have to understand something about Italian politics. Italy is one the world's most politicised countries and Florence is no exception. After all, this is the place where damning political judgements are made about you on the basis of your footwear (Quick beginner's guide: Adidas: communist, Nike: fascist, Puma: depends). In this context, it is hardly surprising that the Florentine local music scene, and social scene more generally, are a little bit influenced by this political lens through which Italians love to see the world. All well and good, but what does this mean for someone who just wants to enjoy a little bit of music in a place which doesn't only play Britney Spears, Coldplay and 50 Cent, and where that most elusive of all creatures, the 'real Florentine', actually goes on a Friday night? Not much in the end; Florence has its own music scene like everywhere else, it's just a little bit harder to find, and a little bit idiosyncratic, just like Italian politics itself. However, once you know where to look you'll be strutting your stuff to great reggae/dancehall, hip-hop and drum'n'bass, or trying hard to look tough in front of punk, metal and hardcore acts.
Apart from the brief period each summer when Florentines forget their urban tribal affiliations and populate the same piazze, frequent the same outdoor bars, and generally enjoy the good weather together, for the rest of the year night-life in Florence is governed by a relatively inflexible form of segregation: you either go to the centre of town or a club to enjoy commercial MTV-style music and pay through the nose for the privilege of standing amongst walking advertisements for numerous Italian designer brands and industrial amounts of cologne, or you venture into the mysterious alternative scene, which is to be found outside of the centre of town, in less luxurious surroundings, to enjoy the infinitely cheaper drinks and the infinitely better music. All this in the wonderful world of the centro sociale.
It is here that the understanding of politics comes in: Now, Italian politics may seem complicated – just take a look at the number of parties in the current governing coalition (whichever coalition it might be at the time of reading) – but this is just an illusion. Italian politics is incredibly simple: Forget all the nuance, debate and compromise which constitutes the political realities of most democracies, and which would seem to characterise Italy; in Italy it is still 1943. You are either left or right; black or red; yes or no; communist or fascist. After all, this is a country where political terrorism was the national pastime until the late 1970s, funded (it is alleged, but generally accepted) by the secret services the major superpowers at the time (I forget who they were, or why they were always arguing) and/or their allies.
Italy hasn't quite moved on. The upshot of this is that underground and alternative music in Florence takes place within the left-wing social movement connected to centri sociali. These are (usually) illegally occupied (i.e. squatted) spaces, which were previously abandoned, which are then transformed into, amongst many other things, great music venues. Many acts, djs, bands and sound systems are very happy to showcase their skills at centri sociali, not only because of the great venues they offer, but often also because they share a lot of the political ideals which the centro sociale movement represents (anti-fascism and anti-racism, anti-globalisation, anti-war, pro-social solidarity). However, if you just want to go along and enjoy the music and a drink, there is no need to share some, all or any of the political ideals that these places say they represent: Just don't be offended by the occasional Cuban flag on the wall, numerous indecipherable political posters in Basque or anti-Bush graffiti.
The number of your Euros you will need to get in can always be counted on the fingers of one hand, and the same amount again will but you a fair amount to drink (just don't ask for a frozen daiquiri, or a white russian – they might have forgotten to get the ingredients in, and you don't want to show up your host). To find out what is going on and these places and when, the best way is to check out the fly-posters which are pasted around Florence, advertising where this weekend's place to be will be. Maybe this website will start to list some of these events too, but failing that these places have their own internet presence – see below. The music of offer at these places is relatively eclectic: in Florence some of the biggest scenes are:
Reggae/Dancehall. Most Italian communists wish they were Jamaican. A few years ago dreadlocks were the big thing among alternative types in Italy. When the European Social Forum was held in Florence a few years ago, it was alleged that the world record for most people with dreadlocks in the same place had been broken. In any case, Jamaican music is massive over here, and the reggae scene in Italy is pretty credible, and big Jamaican acts regularly tour Italy, and often stop off in Florence (usually at the FLOG, via Mercati). Fuelled by the Italy's own version of JamRock, Salento, the tip of the heel of the boot that is the Italian peninsula, Italian reggae and dancehall, whether in the form of live acts, who usually sing in Italian, or sound systems, is well worth checking out. In the winter months there is hardly a weekend goes by without some big dancehall event in Florence, which are often absolutely packed. To see centri sociale at their best and most packed out, you have to go to the dancehall nights. Count the number of adidas tracksuit tops on show, and speculate as to the legality of those hand-rolled cigarettes that people are smoking.
Hip-Hop. Hip-Hop and Reggae scenes are somewhat complimentary, and often cross-over in Italy, however in Florence they compete for space a little bit, with reggae currently nodding into the lead. Nonetheless there is still a fair bit of hip-hop that goes on in Florence that isn't just P Diddy's latest excuse for a single being played in some bar in the town centre which has advertised itself as hosting 'Florence's number one hip-hop and R'n'B night – free champagne to ladies before 10.30'. The Florentine scene has its fair share of good MCs and Hip-Hop crews, and the most likely place to see them is at centri sociali. If you fancy picking up the M-I-C and spitting a few rhymes, this is the place to do it, as there is always a bit of open mic action towards the end of the evening.
Drum'n'Bass. In the Florentine authority's current 'war on fun' (©Dom Brucciani), the much maligned social subculture of the 'punkabestia' is being blamed for all of Florence's perceived ills. The punkabestia style involves a combination of huge skater-style shoes, baggy clothes, an improbable number of prominent piercings, and an even more improbable combination of long and shaved sections of hair. All this topped off with a dog, with or without a lead. This style has caught on amongst some of the hardcore drum'n'bass crowd in Florence, although a lot of other kinds of people are usually on show as well. Drum'n'Bass nights often include relatively big djs from the UK. Dub, and, increasingly, Dubstep, sometimes sneak in as well.
Punk, Ska, Hardcore, Metal. All these scenes are big in Florence, and groups will often come from abroad, including famous New York hardcore bands to play at centri sociali. These gigs go from the very small scale to huge events attracting many hundreds of people. The fashion choices of the people attending obviously changes according to the type of music on offer, and judging by the convincing nature of the clothing, these scenes are probably pretty credible.
You can also hear just about any other genre of music from time to time. In the last year or so I have also heard funk, electro, pizzica (Southern Italian folk music – check this out if you get the chance), and numerous types of indie rock. Centri Sociali often also host cinema and theatre and hold dinners at rock bottom prices, often to raise money for some worthy cause. Also, check out the fantastic graffiti and murals that often adorn the walls of these places.
So where are these places in Florence? This is not as easy a question to answer as it may seem. Because of the semi-legal nature of this whole movement, venues often spring up, disappear and reappear in different places. In Florence itself there are three 'main' centri sociali: the CPA, nEXt-Emerson and Elettro+. Elettro+ is at the moment looking for a new home, as it recently got kicked out of the fantastic home it had before in Isolotto.
The CPA is in South Florence, and is an old school. It's just east of the centre in the Oltrarno, on Via Villamagna – It is surrounded by gardens and you can't miss it due to the red flags outside. In the summer it has two outside stages, and an 'intimate' indoor venue for the winter with a low ceiling. www.cpafisud.org
nEXt-Emerson, so called because it has recently moved home following the destruction of its old one (an old factory called 'Emerson?, hence Ex-Emerson, hence nEXt-Emerson) by Florence city council. The new place, in Castello, which might have been a factory or warehouse in a past life, is even better than the old one, and has a fantastic concert venue, with top notch acoustics. They are currently also doing up the garden which surrounds it. The previous venue had attained legendary status, and its destruction was front page news in the local media. www.csaexemerson.it
Keep an eye on Elettro+'s website - www.elettropiu.info – for news of a new occupation, as their old place was the biggest of the Florentine centri sociali, and the classiest, with big names to match, with great dub, drum'n'bass and electronic music nights which would keep you dancing until dawn. They also, curiously enough, held rock-climbing courses there during the day.
There are plenty more occupied spaces in Florence and its surrounds, but finding out about them and adventuring off to them is part of the fun of getting into a new music scene. Keep an eye out for those hurriedly posted fly-posters on street corners, or just follow the march of the adidas trainers on a Friday evening.
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