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Hannah Knight looks into the history of the Italian fashion industry and finds Florence at its core.
As
the birthplace of the design titans Versace, Gucci and Armani,
Italy is now regarded as one of the most fashionable countries in the
world. When I first visited that country in 2005 I thought of Milan
as the place of its inception but after a prolonged visit to Florence
and a lot of research I am convinced that Florence, this uniquely
beautiful city, with its great architecture, its beautiful
sculptures, is where it all began.
Historians
agree the history of Florence presents the best example of Italian
renaissance.
Before the renaissance, fashion changed slowly,
indeed there was no such thing as fashion, there were clothes, used
as a means of covering the body. But with the renaissance, as
Florence recovered from the Black plague of 1348, loosing half its
population, they took a new outlook on life, wanting to live for the
present, instead of thinking only of afterlife and spirituality,
which led to a whole world full of new discoveries.
The
renaissance brought about a thriving economy in Florence, it had
already become a very prosperous city in Europe as early as 1252
due to the strong gold currency “the Fiorina d’ora” but with
the continuance of banking and the manufacture of cloth, more and
more wealth was being brought into the city.
Soon
Florence was being recognized for its exquisite textiles, Florentine
workers were making cloth of excellent quality, purchasing in England
and then preparing and weaving and dying before selling on to the
rest of Europe and eastern countries making new connections with the
orient. All of this was adding to Florence’s thriving
economy.
Influence in society and politics came hand in hand with
the wealth of the city and by the 14th century the Medici banking
family were the wealthiest family in Italy and, perhaps, the world,
encouraging, as they did, the surge in artistic activity and the
creation of’ an atmosphere for talented artists such as
Brunelleschi and Donatello.
As Florence was becoming the cultural
centre of Europe, ruled by rich bankers, merchants and
industrialists, flourishing in art music and poetry, people were
becoming very aware of their appearance of wealth and status. A city
founded on cloth, wool manufactures, silk dyers, weavers and
goldsmiths was becoming a very style conscious city, laying the
foundation of a new era of fashion.
It was clear elite families of
the renaissance were becoming obsessed with fashion as they invested
fortunes into the clothing industry in order to maintain their
status, socially, politically and as a form of family identity.
Tailoring became very specialized, craftsmen were emerging to create
beautiful, perfect, luxurious clothes for the Medici’s, for the
wealthy important Florentines.
The
Florentine outfits would be composed of good cloth, be perfectly
tailored to the body and elaborately adorned, the overall shape and
colour would send out an important message. Even jobs relating to the
clothing industry were becoming the best paid, giving both status and
credibility.
It had become apparent that fashion tends to move
with economic, cultural and political change, so it had as the
Italian renaissance spread to the rest of Europe. After the Spanish
defeat of Florence in 1512, however, the rich Spanish taste became a
dominating factor for the remainder of the century. Its style
dominated and influenced most of Europe before France’s booming
economy of the 16th century, when rich and wealthy status obsessed
aristocrats took over.
Since
this time Paris was generally known as Fashion capital of the world
with is worldwide known couture, but it was the acts of Gian
Giorgini, with his buying experience and knowledge of the market that
recognized in the years after World War ll that fashion was in need
of an enormous change. Italian designers too recognized the need for
a more practical style as women were away form home working yet
wanted to dress elegantly and youthfully. Paris had couture, America
had sportswear… So it was in 1951, with the famous fashion show at
his home Via de’ Serragli, Firenze, which challenged Paris for
Fashion capital of the world with its ‘Ready to Wear’
collections. The show was Italy’s breakthrough; it brought fashion
back to its rightful home.
Although
the show was small, it had a profound effect on the future of
fashion, the quality was of the highest standards, it was only shared
with the best, the audience was very selective and the results were
incredible. Only ten designers presented their collections that day,
the show launched the careers of designers such as the Fontana
sisters of Rome, Pucci and Roberto Capucci. Ateliers were soon
flooded with orders. Giorgini’s plan had worked, the perfect idea
to bring designers and buyers all together under one roof, saving
time and money. It was soon after that another event followed in July
at Pitti’s Sala Bianca presenting also Armani and Valentino which
really secured the Made in Italy style. Events in Florence today
still take the name “Pitti” as a tribute to the unforgettable
shows.
The
Italian ‘ready to wear’ style was reaching the wider section of
the market, it was something which had not been seen before, it’s
exquisite quality, and style was modeled in the most beautiful
locations, with beautiful views and historical monuments in the
background, luxurious balls held afterwards in the Boboli gardens,
negotiations of buyers and designers in the Strozzi Palace. It soon
became apparent that Florence had made its mark in Italy, and even
Europe as the capital of Fashion.
Although the innovative,
sophisticated, revolutionary designers of Florence continued to grow,
Milan was undergoing an expanding economy in the 1960’s with the
industrial boom. Thousands of Italians from the south started to move
to Milan to seek jobs. Gucci had launched the famous Golden Quad in
Milan in the early 50’s and many Haute Couture fashion houses were
now starting to make the move. It was not long before the famous
Italian fashion shows were also moving to the north.
The
Fashion scene began to change with Armani launching his more
affordable and wearable ‘Ready to Wear” collection and a new
style of manufacturing garments came on the scene. Milan had soon
risen to Fashion Capital
Milan
now claims the capital of fashion in Italy but lets not forget where
some of the biggest selling Italian brands in the world originated,
Guccio Gucci who once washed dishes in the Savile Row in London,
Ferragamo who made his first pair of shoes at age 9 for his sister.
There
is so much history behind the birth of Fashion in Florence, with the
Renaissance, with the legendary fashion shows but also there is still
so much future. Inspiration is all around us, one of the best fashion
schools of Europe is here, new designers are emerging ever day.
Remember the past of Florence and let it inspire us for the future.
HANNAH
KNIGHT
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